WHAT TO DO IF YOU LOSE A DOG
My
name is Debbie Hall and I live in
Debbie
at Lostdogsearch@aol.com
Response
time is always crucial.
You need all the help you can get.
If you have family or friends who
can assist you, then divide the work. Carry
out these tasks immediately upon losing a dog:
WALK,
RUN & DRIVE
around the area. Talk to anyone
outside, but quickly, and see if they saw your dog.
Create
a FLYER with a picture of the
dog. Call the local authorities to
see if there is an ordinance that prohibits the posting of flyers or signs on
utility poles. If so, what about
realtor-type signs in the ground?
Create
SIGNS using heavy paper stock
in a fluorescent color. Stick to
basics, as you need all the details to be big, bold and easy to read from a
distance. People in vehicles need to
see it all at a glance. Use signs in
addition to flyers that you post in stores and give as handouts.
Post signs and flyers on telephone poles, depending on foot/car
traffic and sidewalks. Realtor signs
can be used as an alternative to posting on poles.
Get permission from property owners before
putting them on private property. Illegally
posted signs that are removed by others waste valuable time.
CALL
the local Animal Control Officer (ACO)
immediately, no matter what the hour.
Leave a message if necessary. You
can get the ACO’s name & number by calling the Police Department’s non-emergency
number. ACO’s can be full or
part time. Some towns share and big
cities may have several. As soon as
possible, get a picture flyer with detailed description to the ACO and the person(s) responsible for removal of dead animals from the
street. If your dog was bought from
a breeder or adopted from Rescue, you need to call them NOW. Do not hesitate.
You need the help they can give you.
Dogs can cross into other towns very quickly.
Call and get a flyer to the ACO of each surrounding town.
GIVE
FLYERS TO:
owners, managers or department heads, talking with the person in charge when
possible. Ask that they post your flyer in an area frequented by the employees.
Circulate flyers to: Police & fire depts., Veterinarians, shelters,
kennels, breeders, groomers, pet sitters, farm feed and pet supply stores,
doughnut shops, convenience food stores, golf courses, amusement parks,
airports, senior centers, churches, libraries, car dealers, junkyards, rubbish
transfer stations or the local “dump,” public works, local and state
highway, parks & recreation, school buildings/grounds, cable, gas and
electric companies. Visit any
place that sells or serves food and also talk with the cook or person who throws
the trash into the dumpster. Give
flyers to walkers, joggers, people with dogs, mail trucks, FED EX, UPS,
landscapers, construction crews, rubbish and recycling trucks.
Place
an ad with a picture in the local paper. Sometimes
the local “free” paper will run an ad for you.
Tape signs/flyers on your vehicle for maximum publicity.
Stay “ahead” and go to homes & businesses within a 3-mile radius
to post and hand out flyers. Skip
around if necessary, but cover key areas. Post
at intersections, school districts and athletic fields.
If you have help, the search area can be expanded immediately or on a
“as needed” basis. It is far
better to talk to people in the area than to stuff a mailbox (illegal).
Leave flyers on windshields, under flowerpots, in newspaper bins, etc.
Paper carriers might help by giving flyers to customers.
Smile, be polite, courteous & always on a
positive note. Go to search
areas with flyers at different times throughout the day & evening.
Let people know that they are vital to successful lost dog search efforts
and reinforce “Do Not Chase - Call Us.” Tell
everyone; if the flyers remain posted, the dog is still missing.
Dogs
may return to the area from which they
bolted at any time, whether or not they
are familiar with the place.
Anticipate
their possible return and place these items outside the door normally used when
walking the dog:
food,
water and familiar scent items such as the dog’s blanket, crate, toy,
owner’s smelly shirt, socks or used pillowcase.
Try to keep items dry and in a sheltered location.
Lostdogsearch@aol.com
10/2002
FLYER
BASICS
Create
a flyer immediately for posting & distribution.
Make it easy to read, using plain, bold, capital letters, in black ink
only. Colors fade, use only for
pictures. The flyer’s goal is to
give the public enough information so they can match a dog they see with the
description you provide and call you with a “sighting.”
Using the word “REWARD” - Some children and adults get
excited and it may encourage them to chase your dog.
It doesn’t necessarily lead to more sighting calls.
LOST DOG should
be at top of flyer in very large letters. PICTURE(s)
can be inserted just under it. A
close-up, full body picture of dog standing is best, but any picture that is
clear and detailed is fine. If
necessary, use 2 pictures side by side. Remember
- one great picture is larger/better. List
any major changes in dog’s current looks from the picture used. (Ex. red
collar in picture = “missing red collar”, “puppy picture” or “shaved
for summer.”) “DO NOT
CHASE” – Mandatory phrase. Insert
and underline it. Many
well-intentioned people will chase a dog and chasing can make it run further
away. “DETAILS” - Make
sure the Animal Control Officer “ACO”, Veterinarians, shelters & rescue
groups have details that may not be on flyer, such as tattoo, microchip, and
scars. Put dog’s name, sex, weight
& breed; mixed dog - list top two. List
major colors only. List things
easily seen by people, not shown in picture, such as a white tip on tail, curly
tail, shaved for summer, etc. List
collar, leash or harness and it’s color. Tags
–mention out-of-state (Ex. “MA tags”, “NY rabies tag”)
Old tags – Notify the issuing Town Clerk, ACO and Veterinarian that
your dog is lost with old tags on; especially if you have since moved from that
town/state. DATES/LOCATIONS
- If you omit the date, street & town where dog was lost you could
save time re-doing flyers. Reasons
to omit: Some people see an “old” date on flyer and assume the dog has
already been found. Others, knowing
a dog is still missing, will be quick to judge by date alone, a dog’s chances
of being found safe/alive. Listing
exact street locations & towns will limit your use of the current flyer in
new sighting areas. Many people will
not be on the lookout if your flyer lists a street too far away from their home.
If you go “door to door” with flyers, you may use exact information
as desired. The same applies when
working in multiple towns. PHONE
NUMBERS on flyers must include area code.
List two numbers if possible. Do
not use the ACO’s number except in special circumstances, such as dogs lost
out of state. Even then, include
your number. A “live” person
(best) or answering machine should receive sighting calls.
Check machine as much as possible, even when calls are infrequent.
Fit “CALL ASAP” next to the top phone number.
Put “ANY HOUR”
right under “CALL ASAP” if you can handle a call at
IMPORTANT
– Check with authorities before posting on utility poles, it is against the
law in some localities. You may
substitute “ground” signs, the type used by realtors, where allowed.
Check with property owners before setting any signs.
Don’t waste valuable time replacing your signs that get removed because
of illegal placement.
BIG
TIP: Create yard sale type poster signs in white or fluorescent colors .
Make letters large, bold & easy to read.
Keep details simple and keep phone numbers large.
You may not get much info on them, but they stand out and are easy to
read from vehicles. You will
still need flyers for posting at businesses and as handouts for people.
Lostdogsearch@aol.com 10/2002
First,
get a street map of the town where the dog was lost.
The map should include all border towns. (Office supply or drugstore)
Mark the streets where you posted flyers or went “door to door” with
a highlighter pen. It is very
important to keep a record of every call from the beginning & keep it
until the search is over. You will
actually be “tracking” the dog’s movements.
Get as much information as possible from every call and write everything
down – no exceptions. You need the
date, time, street and nearest cross street, or with luck, exact location that
the dog was seen. Be forgiving of
callers with their descriptions. It
is not easy to see details while driving or on a dog that’s running.
At night, it’s even harder to see & colors get distorted.
They can see the dog but not the collar, however, they may hear license
tags clinking. Gently question them
and ask them to tell you what they saw without putting words in their mouth.
It’s hard to accurately guess a dog’s weight but they can estimate
the body size in relation to another breed they are familiar with.
Key on easily seen markings that the dog may have.
Many calls are vague and left on answering machines.
Be advised that two people can see the same dog and give two entirely
different descriptions. One may see
the leash attached that the other doesn’t.
Never dismiss a sighting because the caller’s description
isn’t a perfect match. Talk with
the residents who live in the area as soon as possible after receiving a call.
They are usually familiar with the neighborhood dogs and their
information may help you dismiss a call or mark it on the map as a valid
sighting. It may well be a local dog
that looks like yours and is allowed to run loose.
A “stray” could also be in the area and be mistaken for yours.
If you think it’s a stray, call the local ACO.
It could be a lost dog belonging to someone else.
Dogs
can go great distances in a short amount of time.
They take shortcuts (that you can’t) to get to other streets.
It seems there might be a pattern if a dog is not familiar with the area
from where they bolted. Many seem to
stay in a 3-mile radius from the exact spot where they bolted.
They may travel a great deal within this “circle” and even return
several times to pass the spot where they bolted.
This is a general observation, not a rule.
Some dogs have made a smaller circle while others go just beyond.
A few run straight down a road for a mile or two, stop and then establish
a “home range.”
Never
be discouraged by lack of calls. Think!
Flyers could be in the wrong areas, not enough distributed or you
didn’t personally talk to enough people yet.
You get a lot of good information when you get out and talk to people.
They also remember you and are more apt to make the call once you have
made it a “personal” thing. It
is time-consuming work. It is
emotionally & physically draining. Do
not rely solely on an Animal Control Officer.
They are usually very busy and cannot devote all their time to your lost
dog. The best advice: Be focused, be
organized and be strong until you find your dog.
They are dependent on you to be smarter than they are.
If your dog is a repeat visitor in an area, do not hesitate. Talk with
Animal Control or an Animal Rescue League & see if they can set up a humane
cage trap in an appropriate place. If
not, try to find a person who will let you leave a “scent” item as well as
food and water in their yard. You
should visit the area frequently & try to spot your dog.
If seen, be calm, kneel/lay down, talk in soft & reassuring tones.
Lure it to you with bits of food and be very patient.
Searchers
must have a leash and “bait” such as: hotdogs, string
cheese, meatballs & “stinky” cheese like Provolone/Swiss,
salmon-flavor kitty treats, luncheon meats,
“Little
Caesar” dog food & “Sheeba” cat food –both easy tubs, no can opener
needed.
*****Bring a squeaky toy, ball or Frisbee if dog
likes them.
Lost
dogs are scared, confused and generally respond better to rescue attempts made
by women. They might prefer children
they know & love rather than the adult owners.
Children must be old enough to understand the situation & remain
calm. Well-intentioned people, including owners, initially chase these dogs.
Chasing just reinforces the dog’s perception that people are “predators”
and may make some of them run even further.
Dogs are extremely adaptable and will revert to instinctive survival
behavior. They constantly search for
food, water & shelter. Water is
relatively easy to find. Food is a
challenge. A dog may hunt for
rodents, birds and snakes and will also eat birdseed, manure, grass, insects and
carrion. They rummage through
garbage bags on trash night. They find food left out in bowls for other animals.
Dogs lose weight during their ordeal but can survive for a long time. They are
attracted to dumpsters with food, most farms, kennels and multiple-animal homes.
Quiet yards, especially on dead end streets are favorite places to find
shelter. They rest on lawns, in fields, cemeteries, open barns & sheds,
under shrubs & porch decks. They
try to sleep as close to a house as possible, especially at night.
It affords them protection from harsh weather and predators.
Dogs don’t usually go into deep woods unless chased.
They can use shallow woods to hide on a temporary basis. Their search for
food, water, shelter and familiar scents keeps them primarily in residential
areas.
Follow
the same routes used previously when walking the dog.
Go for a walk with another dog (on leash) from the home, a dog “friend”
or same-breed dog. Act
“happy” but calm and get the other dog to bark occasionally.
A lost dog, if close by, might hear the barking & come out to greet
the other dog. Dogs use golf
courses, gravel pits, railroad tracks, fields, cemeteries, power line access
roads and parks as shortcuts to get to other streets or the next town.
Explain to pet owners that their dog or cat may be agitated for hours
when they know a strange dog has settled into their yard or neighbor’s yard.
Dogs may bark excessively for quite awhile. The general public and many
lost dog owners are quick to assume that a dog has been a victim of coyotes.
Coyotes are a real threat but not an excessive one.
Many dogs smell them, sense trouble and go in the opposite direction.
Situations vary, but dogs can survive snowstorms and harsh
weather. During the winter you can follow tracks through the snow.
Walk beside the tracks, not on them.
Bring extra clothes if you plan to be out for any length of time. When
“tracking”, be discreet. Walk
quietly and talk in soft, reassuring tones except in woods with bear and
moose. Be aware of hunting seasons and never trespass.
Do not have noisy groups of searchers walking or running around a
“sighting” area. Dogs can sense
when they are being “hunted” and can easily outmaneuver the best of you.
Organize everyone and have a plan – “who to call and what to do” if
the dog is spotted. Time is always
critical and a quick response is best.
SPOT THE DOG!
– NOW WHAT?
Be
prepared to attempt a rescue if you see the dog.
Searchers should always carry a leash and basic “bait” food like hot
dogs. Small tubs of food with foil
peel-back tops such as “Little Caesar” (dog) & Sheeba (cat) can be
easily carried. A lost dog’s
survival instinct usually makes it wary of anyone or anything.
They may treat their owner like a complete stranger.
A dog responds in three basic ways when an owner attempts to approach it.
1. It runs away.
2. It will hesitate but stay put. 3.
It will walk or run to its owner when a scent/voice/visual is recognized.
Some dogs readily approach strangers and are rescued quickly while others
remain lost for weeks or months. There’s
no guarantee how a lost dog will behave. Some
dogs go “feral” (return to wild) quickly.
Some hunt for food primarily at night when it’s quiet and save daylight
hours for resting or travelling. You
lose quite a few sighting calls when a dog’s activities are mostly nocturnal.
****The following is meant only as a general guide,
as situations vary tremendously. Personal
safety should always be considered. You
should contact Animal Control Officers, Shelter or Rescue people in your area
for advice and options, especially if you are unable to attempt “luring.”
The object of “luring” is to get a dog to overcome its fear, trust you and approach for the food. To accomplish this, you should assume a non-threatening position on the ground, below the dog’s eye level. If several people respond to a sighting, only one should attempt to lure the dog and another can be a “backup.” The backup should lie on the ground, far behind or off to side of the lead person, but still within a reasonable distance. The backup should discreetly keep an eye on the dog in case it bolts so you’ll know what direction it headed. A backup may start or finish a rescue attempt if the other person did not succeed. A two-person rescue can be more stressful for the dog as it will watch both people. Make sure it only needs to concentrate on one. Remain calm & focused when responding to a sighting area. Don’t slam doors or shout. NEVER CHASE. Don’t make any sudden movements & keep arms close to your body. Do everything slowly or it may bolt. Approach a dog from the side, never head-on. You have to get as close as possible without alarming it. Observe the dog’s body language but don’t stare. Staring is what predators do to their prey. How close you should get depends on the dog itself and where it is. Out in the open, give them wide berth. In tighter areas you could probably get closer, about 60’ or so. Slowly kneel to the ground, talking softly and reassuringly. Use words the dog may know. “Cookie?” Have food ready and position yourself flat on the ground. If you have a toy, set it beside you as an extra incentive, but hunger is usually the primary driver that makes dogs abandon caution. Don’t smile which is baring your teeth in dog language. Gently toss bits of food towards the dog, keep talking and act submissive. Close your eyes, bow your head and turn it to the side a few times. Try pretending you are enjoying the food (“yummy... pretty good stuff!”) then “share” by tossing bits closer towards you. A dog may take a bit and retreat OR move closer. Praise all forward movements. This could take up to/over an hour. BE PATIENT - DO NOT RUN OUT OF FOOD! Toss small thumbnail size pieces. When the dog is less than an arm’s length away, you have to decide what will work best, a gentle hand or quick grab. If the dog is at ease, try petting it under the chin. Gently grasp the collar & attach a leash. If there is no collar, discreetly slip a leash over its neck. If the dog is overly cautious or the situation demands immediate rescue, just think positive, focus and make it happen. You will have to grab the collar, neck, fur, whatever, hang on & quickly get a leash on it. Be aware: Collars that are loose from weight loss are easier to locate and grab, but the dog can also slip out of it very quickly. Hold on to loose collars!
Remember!
Don’t give unlimited food or water to a rescued dog.
You can make it seriously ill or worse.
See your Veterinarian immediately or go to a 24-HR Emergency Vet Clinic.
Lostdogsearch@aol.com
7/ 2002
Animal
Control Officers (ACOs) & others use “cage traps” in a variety of sizes
to catch domestic & wild animals in a safe, humane manner.
Check on availability before you need one.
The cage front has a bi-fold type door which “locks” in an up/open
position when trap is “set.” A
“footplate” is located about 3/4 of the way into the cage.
When stepped on, it releases a side rod, which allows the front door to
quickly close on an angle, trapping the dog.
If the proper size cage isn’t used, the door will attempt to close but
might come down to rest on their rump instead.
It will startle but not hurt. When
the dog backs out and clears the door, it will spring shut.
Where to set the cage? A good
spot is in the immediate area where you have one or more verified sightings.
Don’t delay. Locate
a resident or business owner who will let you set up the cage on their property,
ideally using same areas where the dog has been seen.
Choose “easy” access spots for monitoring, yet private - for the
dog’s sake and to avoid prying eyes
of children & adults. Ask an ACO to help you explain to people how the trap
works and its importance to this rescue. Established
law sets minimum times required to check traps.
Checking more frequently is highly recommended and necessary, especially
in severe or cold weather. Be
advised that area residents will not appreciate their pets being locked up in
your cage. Make sure the cage is on
steady ground and doesn’t wobble. Suggestions:
Use wet dog food with a portion of: meatballs, roast beef, stinky cheese,
hotdogs, etc. De-bone any
meat you use, don’t risk someone’s dog choking.
Don’t use cat food. It
attracts too many felines as well as skunks, possums and raccoons.
Precious time is wasted when a trap has “unwanted” “guests.”
Set food at rear of trap on shallow plate.
Hang a hotdog inside, from the top & near the rear.
Put a few small bits of food outside trap leading inside.
Don’t overload area outside trap with food, a common mistake.
The goal is to entice a hungry dog into the cage. Put in a water bowl.
Cages with a rear door option make it easier to change food & release
unwanted guests. Tip - Use handicap
grabber tongs to reach/adjust items in cages.
Dogs don’t like walking on wire grates.
Using a towel, cover the bottom grates up to and over, but not under,
the footplate. Do not have
items sticking out the front entrance as they will jam, prevent the door from
closing securely and make it possible for the dog to get out. Items
to place inside: a section of the dog’s blanket, dog hair, toy, same items
from other dog in house, owner’s used T-shirt or pillowcase.
Nothing familiar to use? Use
scents/hair from another dog. Lost
male dog? Use facecloth swiped with
urine of female dog or one in heat. Place
a straight stick through the bars about 2 inches in front of the footplate and
about 3 inches up, so the dog has to step over it, placing paw directly on
footplate (adjust for dog’s size). Watch
rod on side of cage. Cages are
generally covered to protect the dog from sun, rain, chilling winds & snow.
Camouflage with dark green or brown shower curtain, tarp or other sturdy
cloth. A bale of straw can be pulled
apart in blocks and used to insulate the trap and make it cozy.
Cover most of cage except front door area.
Position a few pine branches at the back end, but keep it open so dog can
see through and food scent drifts out. Place
small branches & twigs on top to weight it and give it a natural and
“den-like” appearance. Toss
leaves, not sticks, just inside the entrance over wire grates still exposed.
Secure covers & branches so they don’t fall into entrance, jam the door or
rod. Always test trap function.
Anyone who monitors the cage should be comfortable with releasing and/or
re-setting the trap. If not, assign
“duties.” List two names with
phone numbers for “emergency” contacts on 8 x 11 paper.
Put in protective sheet/Ziploc bag & secure to cage with twist ties.
LOST
DOGS
AFTER
RESCUE
“Lost Dog Found” – Great news and Congratulations!
Now give your dog a hug AND the care it needs and deserves for being a survivor.
1.
DO NOT GIVE A DOG
UNLIMITED AMOUNTS OF FOOD OR WATER
Many dogs that have
been lost are mentally and physically stressed (sometimes severely) and cannot
handle ANY abrupt changes. Your
“act of kindness” could put your pet in further distress and have serious
consequences. Don’t risk its
health and well being. Let a
Veterinarian evaluate your dog’s condition in a professional and experienced
environment.
2. IMMEDIATELY – TAKE YOUR DOG TO A VETERINARIAN or 24 HR CLINIC
Vital information to
tell a “new” Veterinarian you might see in an emergency situation:
·
Number of days the dog was lost.
·
Dog’s weight before it was lost. Significant weight loss needs
special attention.
·
Pre-existing medical conditions and/or medications.
·
Current status of vaccinations, especially rabies.
·
If you gave the dog food or water, tell the Vet how much it
consumed.
The Veterinarian
should do a complete physical exam and will look for ticks, scratches and
puncture wounds. Blood, urine and
stool sample tests will help detect intestinal parasites, bacterial diseases and
infections. Stools should be tested
at least twice. Lost dogs can drink
stagnant or polluted water and eat decayed food from trashcans or the remains of
wild animals. Scavenging could cause
the ingestion of pieces of plastic, foil or other foreign objects.
Entire body systems can be severely weakened.
If your dog’s health is fragile, ask the Vet about delaying
non-critical booster vaccines and withholding the application of flea and tick
products.
3.
AT HOME
Advise your Vet of
any changes in your dog’s condition. Try
to keep the dog calm and quiet. It
needs time to recuperate and lots of rest.
Avoid putting it in “stressful” situations.
Dogs are always eager to please, even when ill.
Be patient. Just because you
are ready to return to a “normal” routine, doesn’t mean your pet is.
Dogs may
become food-protective. There was no
“supper” dish waiting for them while they were lost and they may have had to
guard what little food they found to eat. If
you have other pets in the house, make sure to feed them separately or at
different times until you have determined that this is not an issue.
4. PHONE CALLS AND FLYERS
ASAP – Make those
phone calls, notifying everyone on your “contact” list and to say “Thank
You!”
(ACOs, Vets, Breeders, Rescue Groups, City Workers, Businesses, etc.)
ASAP - Remove all
flyers and signs. Make an effort to
do a thorough job. Some people
ignore flyers and signs that are “old”, while others will continue to
watch or search for your missing pet. Removing
all postings will send a clear message that your dog has been found.
It also says, “Thanks! I
didn’t forget that I was here asking for your help” to the people in areas
directly impacted by your signs. Maintaining
a good relationship with the general public is important and can be immensely
beneficial to future lost dogs and their searchers.
LOST
DOGS
LOSS PREVENTION TIPS
Page 1
#1 TIP: Keep your dog leashed when you are outside your home. No exceptions, no excuses.
By accident or
carelessness, a “lost dog” can happen to anyone.
Dogs are lost by owners as well as those in the “dog business” world,
including: foster homes, daycare facilities, groomers, kennels, breeders, rescue
and transport people, petsitters (professional or
family/friends) and Veterinarian clinic workers.
WINDOWS OF
Collars:
Dogs frequently slip out of collars.
Be aware of situations that might encourage a dog to bolt, such as:
Other animals that
your dog wants to chase or run away from.
Strangers,
especially men (no offense) directly approaching the dog.
Sudden loud noises
– see “Big Noise Events.”
Buy a fluorescent or
brightly colored collar and check for “snug” fit.
You should be able to fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s
neck. Check the fit of the collar
often. Puppies grow and
adult dogs can gain or lose weight, just like humans.
Leashes/Cable Runs:
Replace if frayed, worn or chewed. Dogs
have run away with leashes & cables still
attached and the
risk of being “hung up” is high. Retractable
leashes do not provide optimal control when a dog is straining to bolt,
especially if the dog has good “tugging” power.
If a dog bolts with a retractable leash attached, the noise it makes
clattering on the ground can further frighten the animal.
If it doesn’t retract, the line could get hung up on something and
effectively tie the dog like an anchor. Do not assume a dog will bark for help
if it does get entangled while still on a lead.
More likely, it will remain quiet and still, so as not to attract
predators while it is in this vulnerable position.
A sturdy cloth leash is a better choice, wrapping the handle around your
wrist several times.
Big Noise Events:
Dogs can be frightened by loud noises that didn’t seem to bother them previously.
July 4th fireworks
are set off prior to, during and after the holiday and not just at
“official” locations.
Thunderstorms –
Don’t leave dogs outside or unattended. They
can develop “storm phobia” at any time.
Construction
noises– nailing guns, big delivery trucks and landscapers, to name a few– at
your home or nearby.
Car backfires, loud
parties, motorcycles, sirens, gunshots and boat horns can easily upset a dog.
Fences:
Fenced yards do not guarantee a pet’s safety without
proper monitoring on your part! Gates
can be left open or unsecured. Fences
may have rotting or missing boards. Dogs
can dig under, jump over or climb up
and over. Tiny dogs - “beloved
pet” to you, possible “food” to eagles/hawks during the day, owls at
night. Fences do not contain
“escape artist” dogs or guarantee prevention of other animals getting in.
Electronic fences used in conjunction with a “training” collar do not
keep other animals from entering your
yard. Dogs have bolted from
their yards, despite previous “reinforcements” from the collar/fence setup.
Snow banks & hard pack drifts can dramatically reduce fence heights,
allowing dogs to easily jump over what was previously
too high for them. Dog houses or
other items placed next to fences provide a “ladder” dogs can use to jump
over a fence.
Doors:
It only takes a few seconds for a dog to get through an open door or one
opened just a few inches.
Children, friends,
delivery people and tradesmen (i.e. painters, plumbers) – have all
inadvertently left doors open long enough for a dog to dash outside.
People open doors while they
are trying to leash a dog. Leash the
dog before opening the door. Fostered
and newly adopted dogs learn the whereabouts of exit doors very
quickly and many bolt within 72 hours of arriving at their new home.
Many have taken advantage of the door being opened when an owner returns
late at night and thinks that the dog is sleeping and nowhere in sight.
LOST
DOGS
LOSS PREVENTION TIPS
Page 2
TRAVELING
Vacations:
Places that provide your pet with new sights, sounds and scents can be
interesting or scary. Have
fun whether it’s a favorite vacation spot or your first visit, but keep your
dog leashed so it can go home when you
do. Just imagine losing your dog in
another town or state and then being
forced to return home without finding him. Is
that worth the risk, just so “Rover” can run “free?”
When traveling, bring a clear and recent picture of your dog with you.
This allows you to make up a flyer “on scene” if your dog gets lost
during your trip. You can also have
something to show to the Animal Control Officer and area residents.
If you leave “Rover” home, give firm and clear instructions to the
professional, friend or
relative responsible for your dog – “Do not walk my dog without its
leash or harness attached.” “Never
let my dog outside without its collar and tags on.”
Do not assume your dog’s behavior in your absence.
It is not fair to put family, friends or a petsitter in the unfortunate
position of being the person who watched your dog run off, never to be seen
again. Do not
assume a dog will
respond to voice commands from someone outside the immediate family.
Do not assume the dog will behave
the same when separated from his human family.
Many unleashed dogs allowed outside, “for
a minute”, have run away while in the care of a close friend or family
member. Owners assumed
that their dog would be “fine” because it “knew” the petsitter. If
your pet’s nickname is “Houdini” and has a prior record of escaping, you must
tell the person who will be watching your dog before they find out the hard way.
New Home?
Moving is stressful on families and
their pets. As soon as you move into
a new home, leash and walk your dog
around the yard’s boundaries several times a day.
Old familiar scents are now gone and they need to get accustomed to the
new smells. Do not wash your
pet’s bedding. You may need it
as a “scent” item to attract your dog if it should run away during this time
of transition. Give your pet ample
time to get familiar with its new surroundings.
It may take weeks or months for it to understand that this new area is
now “home.” Don’t leave your
dog alone at your “old” empty home
while you are busy arranging furniture at your new one.
Your dog will be confused and won’t understand why you AND the
furniture are gone. Plan ahead and
make sure your pet comes with you or is taken care of properly during this
hectic time.
Foster Home?
You open your heart and your home.
Thank you! Never lost a guest
yet? Great!
No matter what you are told, assume your new “guest” is an escape
artist. Remember; this dog is being
placed in a new home (yours) with “strange people” (you!) and has no clue as
to what’s going on. Do you have
other dogs that aren’t too enthused about the new arrival and adding to its
confusion? You already know you are
responsible for this dog the minute it is handed to you, so take a precautionary
measure for the dog’s sake, as well as yours.
Put some type of local ID tag on a collar immediately.
This is essential if the dog arrives with out-of-state, expired or no
tags. No time?
The dog won’t be with you that long?
You’ll get to it soon? You’ll
sorely regret those thoughts when you have to spend weeks or longer searching
for a lost animal. There will be
much guilt, loads of stress and a big lesson learned the hard way.
If you are in a pinch, make a temporary tag by using the same little
round tags that are used by car repair shops.
Sold in bags most anywhere stationery is found, you can write 2 phone
numbers, & the date on one side, rabies expiration date on the other and
seal with clear packaging tape. You
can also affix one of your sticky address labels on the inside of a dog’s
collar.
Rescue
People/Transporters: Thanks to all; you are making a difference.
You work very hard to save these dogs, treat each one like the treasure
it is. Use caution when:
transferring from kennels or crates to other vehicles, at Veterinarian’s
offices, shelters or foster homes and at “pit stops” in rest areas.
LOST
DOGS
LOSS
PREVENTION TIPS PAGE
3
Adoptions:
Dogs that are adopted from shelters or through rescue groups are lucky
and special. Give them the love,
time and attention they deserve. Show
them around their new home. Take
them for walks (on leash) in the yard along the boundaries several times a day.
This will hasten the learning process of scent association.
Dogs have great scent memories
and they will be able to recognize previous spots where they marked.
They will also find and remember all the other
interesting things they scented during walks with you.
They will start considering all of these areas as their
new territory within a relatively short time if you are diligent about this
positive reinforcement exercise. These
“walk-abouts” will help a dog bond to you, as well as teach them that it’s
“okay” to stay here, this is your area.
Please pay extra special attention to exit doors during the first month or so
when you have a new “canine” addition to the family.
Children, friends and other visitors to your home do not realize that an
open door is an invitation for a dog to bolt.
Dogs that are still unsure of their surroundings are just
waiting for the moment when they can “escape.”
They have pushed through doors open only a few inches.
They have lain quietly in the dark of night, just waiting for an exit
door to be opened by an unsuspecting human.
Opportunities abound and are never wasted by the dogs that are looking
for them. Many new adoptive families
assume their new dog ran away because the dog didn’t “love” them.
Though this reasoning may help the family ease their guilt, the simple
truth is that the dog wasn’t given enough time to bond with them.
Many dogs are at high “flight risk” until that bond is established.
Making a dog feel like it’s a part of the family doesn’t just happen
overnight. Simply put: Any dog put
in a new situation can feel confused and scared.
Is there any good but simple advice?
Yes. It is far easier to
adjust your schedules to allow a few extra minutes each day to help your pet
through this time of transition. If
you think you don’t have the extra time, remember – your other option is to
spend days, weeks or months looking for your pet if it runs away.
Tags:
Many dogs are lost with their collars on but no
tags attached. Make the effort
to put an ID tag on your dog’s collar. The
big chain pet stores have an automated booth set up for this and it takes only a
few moments of your time. It was
actually fun to pick the color, shape and layout of the tags I made for my dogs.
Think about putting two phone numbers on the tag.
The 2nd number should be someone who can reach you in case of
an emergency and be easily reached by those trying to call you with information
about your dog. City/Town license
tags should be current. It is very
important to have a current rabies tag on your pet.
You don’t want anyone to have to wonder if your dog is current on this
shot. Insurance?
Put address label on inside of collar.
Microchipping and
Tattoos: Ask your Veterinarian about
Tattoos and Microchipping. Microchipping
is gaining popularity fast. An easy
way to permanently ID your dog and most shelters and Veterinarians now have the
equipment to scan for the chip. Tattoos
are also permanent but require more work on the part of someone trying to trace
the numbers. There are many
registries for tattooed dogs – ask your Vet or check on the Internet for
further information. If you are
unsure, consider both means of identification for your pet.
Common Excuses for Lost Dogs: Too many to list
IF YOU THINK THAT THE ABOVE PREVENTION MEASURES ARE TOO MUCH BOTHER, YOU SHOULD TRY THE EXERCISE BELOW:
Make 50 phone calls
(to start) Construct 200 flyers (to
start) Throw money at a copy machine
of your choosing or throw at least 2 printer ink cartridges in the rubbish.
Drive around in circles for hours each day for one week. Make that two
weeks, no make that a month. Talk to
people you don’t care about. Talk
to the ones who don’t care about you. Skip
important events that you had planned to attend for months.
Skip whatever meal you most enjoy each day and spend it doing any of the
above items listed. Cry or swear
each day – choose one or both.
LOST/MISSING DOG REPORT FORM
DATE LOST OR MISSING
_____________________________ DATE OF REPORT ______________________________DOG’S NAME
____________________________________________ AGE_________________ WEIGHT________________SEX OF DOG MALE ___
______ NEUTERED MALE_________ FEMALE__________ SPAYED FEMALE___________BREED ( List top two if a mix)
_______________________________________________________________________________COLOR/S & OTHER DETAILS
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
COLLAR / LEASH - DESCRIBE
_____________________________________________________________________________LICENSE TAG #
___________________ RABIES TAG #__________________ NAME ID TAG _______________________MICRO CHIP
# _________________________ __ TATTOO # ____________________________________________OWNER/S NAME
__________________________________________________________________________________________STREET ADDRESS
____________________________________________________________________ PO BOX _____________CITY/TOWN
__________________________________________________ STATE_________ ZIP CODE___________________HOME PHONE #
___________________________________________________________________________________________WORK PHONE #
__________________________________________________________________________________________CELL PHONE #
_________________________________________ OTHER PH #______________________________________E-MAIL ADDRESS
__________________________________________________________________________________________FLIER ATTACHED TO REPORT YES
________ NO________ PICTURE OF DOG YES________ NO_________EXACT LOCATION DOG LOST ____________________
__________________________________________________________HOW WAS DOG LOST ?
____________________________________________________________________________________OTHER DOGS IN HOME ?
___________________________________________________________________________________HOW LONG HAVE YOU HAD DOG?__________________________________________________________________________
IS DOG FROM A BREEDER, OR ADOPTED FROM A SHELTER OR RESCUE GROUP ?____________________________
ACO, RESCUE, & OTHER CONTACTS
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
www.lostdogsearch.com
copy 2/2005
LOST DOG “TIA” PLEASE HELP
“Tia” is a Border Collie, approx 30 lbs.
Her body is mostly white. Her
head is black with white stripe on nose that runs up between her floppy ears.
She has a black patch on her back and smaller patches on hips.
She was wearing a red collar when lost, no tags.
Tia is scared, confused & searching for food, shelter
& familiar scents. Lost
dogs rest in yards under porch decks, shrubs & in open barns or sheds.
Hiding spots are wherever they can fit, safe from predators and bad
weather. Your dog or a neighbor’s
dog may bark incessantly, knowing Tia is nearby.
Sighting calls are critical to a family’s search effort for their dog.
Your call is important! Please,
if you think you saw her, call now! Old
sightings are sorely needed & greatly appreciated.
It can take weeks or months to find lost dogs without sighting
calls. We need the date, exact
street location & time you saw her (or approximates) in order to track her.
Tia was last seen March 13th, going through backyards,
“visiting” local dogs. If you
see our fliers posted, she’s still missing.
Please don’t try to “catch” Tia by chasing her.
We don’t want her to run further away or get hit by a car.
If she wants to approach or follow you or your dog inside, let
her, she is friendly. Call us
immediately & we will gladly arrange to pick her up ASAP.
You can call us 24hrs a day. Tia’s
family wishes to thank people who called us with sightings & those who
called simply to express kind thoughts. Please
help us get Tia back home safely.
Call 508
555-8685
508
555-8616
THIS IS A SAMPLE “HANDOUT” FOR LOST DOG SEARCHING BY Lostdogsearch@aol.com 2/2003
1-508-555-8685
1-508-555-8616
SAMPLE LOST DOG FLYER
Lostdogsearch@aol.com 2/2003
For more flyers
and information visit http://www.lostdogsearch.com
(Clicking this link will open a new window and will take you to a site outside
of Critter Haven, Inc.)